RESTAURANT REVIEW

Trattoria Bella Cibo

If a great meal for you pairs excellent food, outrageously affordable prices and fun, do not pass go. Head directly to an off-the-beaten track little eatery in Margate. Yes, Margate. Travel west on Margate Blvd. from 441, hang a right at the clock tower and you’re looking at Trattoria Bella Cibo. In what used to be a less than lovely strip mall, now beautifully refurbished by the city (who’s also the landlord), sits this eclectic place with two owners, each more of a character than the other.

This is fun dining. Whether you start with a drink and appetizer at the full liquor bar, sit outside under the canopy or dine inside where the energy is, you’ll leave happy. The whole staff makes sure. They WANT this place to work and want you to have such a great experience, you come back and bring more peeps with you. And so far, so good. Open since March, the city of Margate has a vested interest in this place. One of the first restaurants of this caliber to open in their city, Sessa is also one of their own. A road foreman in their Public Works Department for 29 years, all that changed the day about two years ago when he walked into He Brews Café, also on 441 in Margate.

Owner chef Tommy Valdes made him a lunch, in Sessa’s words, “that almost brought tears to my eyes it was so good. How that man could make even a sandwich taste that good made me come back every day for over a year.” And he means every day. In the process, the two became fast, close friends.

What Sessa discovered, and the rest of us are just learning, is this mountain of a man with a bark but no bite, cooks, and then some. Trattoria Bella Cibo is the culmination of when an illustrious career collides with a dream. The result? A perfect storm of culinary panache meets I Love Lucy. You never know what to expect at Bella Cibo, from their what’s freshest at the market specials, to a Sinatra serenade, to live jazz on Thursdays, DJ Fridays & Saturdays to an elaborate Sunday brunch. They do off-premise catering, have room for parties and events, and even have a late-night night-clubby appetizer or simply dessert clientele.

This place morphs into many things, and does them all well. Born in Brooklyn, Valdez comes by his chef-ing prowess honestly. From the time he could walk, he wanted to cook. His aunt walked into the kitchen one morning to see a pint size Tommy, making his own scrambled eggs. The family knew then he’d be a chef someday. His dad owned a restaurant, and Valdez knew one day he would too. Trained at the Culinary Institute, he did stints at the NY Hilton, Sheraton Center, Warwick and the tres elegant Helmsley Palace were where he cut his formidable teeth.

Bella Cibo, meaning beautiful food, is where it all comes full circle. DAILY. I WENT FOR LUNCH AND CANCELED TWO APOINTMENTS. Chef Tommy’s Snapple Apple martini took care of that. Van Gogh Wild Apple Vodka, Triple Sec … I’m glad I made it home for bed.

Drinks are ample, the food brilliant and so well-priced, you cannot leave disappointed. Over several visits, no meal was less than stellar; even when we brought the puppy and just had drinks and appetizers on the patio. For starters, the calamari is exceptional. ($9), lightly breaded, sprinkled with slivers of roasted peppers, scallions, Romano cheeses and two heavenly sauces, a tomato and a refreshing tartar. His Signature Meatballs ($9) are in a word: outrageous! (Hence Sessa’s: “biggest balls,” declaration). TWO huge balls enough for 4-6 come swimming in one of the best marinaras anywhere, and we mean Italy too. Marinara starts as many debates as gay marriage. Some like it sweet, some thin, some chunky. If I be Goldilocks, it just right. Awesome, perfect, wipe-the-plate-clean, good.

Chicken wings ($9) are scrumptious. Perfectly charred, and layered with heavenly carmelized onions and Italian spices. Fettuna con Spinache ($8) is a grilled Tuscan Garlic toast, topped with melted Fontana cheese, baby spinach , roasted tomatoes, shaved Romano and Balsamic Glaze makes you want to stand up and scream something: Ole, OY, or hubba hubba!