RESTAURANT REVIEW

Japango

Three words are like gold to most restaurants. Consistency, Creativity and Following. The first two have given Kevin Lee’s Japango, the coveted third. The following was evidenced on an obscure Monday night in mid November when there wasn’t a seat in the house at 7:15 at his newest eatery, Japango Regency in Boca’s Regency Court Plaza off Jog and Yamato. Some masters are meant to paint, others sculpt. God gives everyone some talent. Lee was born to cook. His food is so artfully done, diners spend the first minute just taking in the presentations. And the next 20 looking at each other in awe, when the flavors Lee fuses on the plate become magic to the palate. Parkland’s hot, hip, elegant restaurant on State Road 7 just north of Hillsboro, spawned a sister restaurant. And by the looks of things, Lee’s golden touch continues to sparkle. Even at the opening of Parkland Japango five years ago, it was obvious this place was destined for longevity — the elusive prize granted only to those establishments that exceed expectations consistently. Something both Japangos do. I’ve never had less than a stellar meal here. Even take-out is superb! Acutely aware of the award-winning reputation of Executive Chef/owner Kevin Lee for years when he helmed a Palm Beach Sushi icon — it wasn’t until I tasted and saw the beautifully hand-sculpted fare he painstakingly crafted for his own restaurant, did I became a devotee.

In these parts, his food and his unassuming, easy-going nature, is legend. And today, this talented, but unaffected, good soul of a man has earned his stripes — his Parkland Japango is so successful, he expanded next door creating a classy, sexy lounge and private party venue adding THE only thing that was missing from Japango — a full liquor bar. While a lover of his candy-rimmed sour apple sake martini (the new Pomegranate one, $10) sampled at the beer and wine only Boca location was to die for — it’s awesome to be able to order your favorite cocktail too. The sultry lounge at Japango Parkland is befitting Lee’s style — chic, sleek and with a NY, Hong Kong or LA vibe. Eat in the lounge with the beat of the music, or next door more quietly in the restaurant. At both, the food is suberb.

With Japanese, Thai and Chinese dishes all fused on a menu with the most elegant, fresh and inventive Sushi experienced anywhere, Japango transcends ordinary. The new menu is exquisite and exciting and pushes Lee further up the culinary ladder. The trust-me-you’ll-never-regret-must-try is Japango’s App Tasting Platter ($20). Three pieces of four of his most popular appetizers, it is not only one of the most beautiful plates, the creative taste sensations are incredible. This is what separates Lee — the quality and artistry and time spent creating the flavor explosions in your mouth is what has given him such a following. This is fine dining at its most fundamental. Combining tastes so delicate and with Lee’s soft touch, so individually discernable, the meal becomes that almost ethereal experience people seek, especially in a challenging economy. Neither location disappoints. Each bringing something unique to the (no pun intended) table. Parkland Japango’s lounge, party venue and full liquor bar adds sophistication. The Boca location’s outdoor dining (where pets are welcome), and more intimate size is warm. Japango Lobster ($26) was perfectly prepared. Served in bite sized pieces in the shell that easily dislodge with a fork. Tossed with ginger, scallions and asparagus on a crispy bed of noodles that preserve the most unbelievable crunch. A Seabass roll with butter cream sauce ($14) was a special. A platter-full of decadently fresh sea bass was rolled in thin soy slices with vegetables and doused with a light sauce squiggled with a sweet soy demi-glace. OMG!! Lee’s Crispy Calamari ($9) is magnificent, as is his Salmon Crunch roll ($10). A mouth-watering combo of cream cheese, salmon and asparagus tempura style, served with eel sauce. I’ve eaten thru almost the entire menu and